The Tools.

Soldering - Your Iron

The big one. A good iron can make all the difference in your work. Everyone will have their preference of tip shape and size, and soldering will take you the most practice out of any other aspect of stained glass, but a good iron will give you a serious leg up! for an all in one solution, I favor this Hakko iron, which has built in temperature control.

If you want a hardier option that can take a serious kicking through the years, this iron by Weller is an absolute beast. Bear in mind you’ll also need temperature control to use this iron, provided by a nice Rheostat.

Cutting - Your Cutter and Pliers

Cutting is my favourite step in the glass process by far! When properly cared for an kept oiled, a good glass cutter can be your best friend for years. I love this Toyo Pencil Style cutter as I cut two-handed, however if you’re looking for a little more single handed pressure and control, this Pistol Grip Toyo is perfect. Definitely Toyo though. 100%. You should also make sure you have Cutting Oil available, either in the reservoir of your cutter or in a sponge, to keep your cutter wheel lubricated and preserve the life of the cutter. For marking out your pattern, I swear by these metallic pens, and it’s often helpful to use a light pad to transfer your pattern to the glass.

For breaking your cuts, you’ll need both a set of Running Pliers, as well as a set of Grozing Pliers (or this kit with Both if you don’t yet have either. And your two hands. I also recommend everyone has a Cutting Square because I use mine constantly, it’s perfect for making sure you have right angles. Lastly (it’s nonessential but), here’s the Cutting Mat I like to use.

Grinding - Your Grinder

While grinding by hand is technically an option, its one that will drastically increase the time you need to make your pieces, unless you cut verrrrry carefully. Even still, cleaning up the edges of a cut is still something easiest done with an electric grinder.

I swear by the Glastar brand. I’ve had my Glastar grinder for over two decades and the motor just has no idea how to quit. If you want something with a few extra bells and whistles, the Techniglass grinder is an option as well.

(If you do want to use hand tools, this Grinding Stone is an option).

Foiling - Your Tape and Fid

Everyone’s favourite TV companion, foiling for Tiffany style glasswork is your nice downtime out of the workshop. To do this you’ll need your foil, in a couple different widths (I use Edco’s 3/16 and 7/32 primarily), and you’ll also need a Fid for burnishing (this tool does double duty on lead if you ever do lead work), and a Knife for trimming excess foil.

Soldering - Your Solder and Flux

Getting to the most important part… soldering that foiled glass together! I’ve found an industry favourite is the Amerway brand, however I don’t find much of a difference so long as you have the 60/40 tin/lead blend. I use whatever I can find, this Canfield brand is perfectly acceptable. If you’re making anything wearable or something that will be handled often, make sure you are using a Lead Free Solder instead.

You’ll need flux in order to prepare your foil for the solder. I love this Gel Flux in particular because it smokes less and doesn’t aggravate my skin as much. If you aren’t a fan of how sticky it is though, I used this Liquid Flux for years and it works just as well - this is just a personal preference.

Finish - Your Chemicals and Polish

Finally when your piece is done, you’ll need to choose the colour of your solder, and finish the product with protective wax. Here’s your options:

• Leave it silver (this option I find draws attention to the gleaming solder and I like it best on light colours of glass

• Blacken it with Black Patina (this I find draws more attention to the glass and leaves the solder in the background)

• Copper it with Copper Patina (copper it? Another stylistic choice)

• Also Brass and Pewter… but these are much rarer options

And then you’ll want to protect it with wax. You can either use this Finishing Compound which has abrasive material that will shine up your solder, but might affect your patina… or go right for a straight Carnauba Wax product instead.